Canadian Nissan Truck Club

Ahh, someone's been in there before, all bets are off then lol. I remember after swapping the engine in mine the harness touched the manifold while I was in Burlington. Lost all my gauges on the skyway bridge.

Well I had Wagner ThermoGarbage on there before. Low dust, low noise, low stopping power haha.

Adam wrote:Ahh, someone's been in there before, all bets are off then lol. I remember after swapping the engine in mine the harness touched the manifold while I was in Burlington. Lost all my gauges on the skyway bridge.

Well I had Wagner ThermoGarbage on there before. Low dust, low noise, low stopping power haha.

Lol that could be the big difference

Yah there is some very questionable routing and some damage to harness clips.

Sometimes owning older cars is a pain but I would rather deal with it than have payments or a screen as my instrument cluster.

Front brake pads on the Pathfinder (EBC GreenStuff, did before but here's a useless pic), fixed the parking brake, and free up a stuck rear caliper. As you can see in the pic, that was what was left of the drivers rear parking brake hold down spring and plate. Put a new one on and the p-brake is good as new.



Spark plugs on the Xterra, completely forgot to do them but man were they a bear to get out! Glad I changed them though, cylinder #4 was the one on the left. The rest looked OK. I even broke my rule of never using antisieze on plugs (only a drop or two of ATF normally to ease threading in), but this time I used a bit of "never seez" and adjusted the plug torque accordingly.


The rest looked normal.

Probably see a mileage improvement after the plugs.

What's the concern with anti-seize beside looking like the tin man 11.2 seconds after opening the can?

Bow_Tied wrote:What's the concern with anti-seize beside looking like the tin man 11.2 seconds after opening the can?

It increases the tightening torque on the fastener you use it on. I just lowered the amount of torque to compensate. But supposedly it can cause people to overtighten and strip threads. I am not an engineer or mechanic but this is what I've read all over the 'net.

And yes I did look like the tin man. I think it may have been almost 30 seconds before I got it on my shirt.

Adam wrote:

Bow_Tied wrote:What's the concern with anti-seize beside looking like the tin man 11.2 seconds after opening the can?

It increases the tightening torque on the fastener you use it on. I just lowered the amount of torque to compensate. But supposedly it can cause people to overtighten and strip threads. I am not an engineer or mechanic but this is what I've read all over the 'net.

And yes I did look like the tin man. I think it may have been almost 30 seconds before I got it on my shirt.

I believe it's supposed to be about 30%

The spark plug torque on the X is 22 ft lbs so I did it at 20 which is as low as my torque wrench goes. I used an extremely small amount of never seez so it should be okay.

Ya, you got it right. as much as 90% of the applied torque is lost due to friction/debris. If it were easy, we would never mention torque but rather clamping force. Some torque specs I have seen instead will say seat and then turn 5/6 of a turn or similar. I have seen 30% used for reduction to lubrication... Every situation is different but this could be a good starting point. I see most people get upset about lubing wheel studs. I have done this for ever without a problem, but I use a torque wrench at about 90% of the torque. I really think very clean, good condition threads are the most important thing. A tiny amount lube on the first thread to two is often enough to prevent corrosion and aid assembly. jmo Tribology ain't easy.

Bow_Tied wrote:Ya, you got it right. as much as 90% of the applied torque is lost due to friction/debris. If it were easy, we would never mention torque but rather clamping force. Some torque specs I have seen instead will say seat and then turn 5/6 of a turn or similar. I have seen 30% used for reduction to lubrication... Every situation is different but this could be a good starting point. I see most people get upset about lubing wheel studs. I have done this for ever without a problem, but I use a torque wrench at about 90% of the torque. I really think very clean, good condition threads are the most important thing. A tiny amount lube on the first thread to two is often enough to prevent corrosion and aid assembly. jmo Tribology ain't easy.

How about anti seize ?


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the x kid wrote:

Bow_Tied wrote:Ya, you got it right. as much as 90% of the applied torque is lost due to friction/debris. If it were easy, we would never mention torque but rather clamping force. Some torque specs I have seen instead will say seat and then turn 5/6 of a turn or similar. I have seen 30% used for reduction to lubrication... Every situation is different but this could be a good starting point. I see most people get upset about lubing wheel studs. I have done this for ever without a problem, but I use a torque wrench at about 90% of the torque. I really think very clean, good condition threads are the most important thing. A tiny amount lube on the first thread to two is often enough to prevent corrosion and aid assembly. jmo Tribology ain't easy.

How about anti seize ?


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That's what I use, I apply it liberally the first time and then just a quick touch up every couple of years. Drop the torque by 20ish%

oil, anti-seize, grease, ...all lubricants. They vary slightly in CoF but relative to dry they'd be in the same ballpark.

The only car I've felt the need to lube the wheel bolts (not studs) is my VW. Those friggin things are so hard to turn out after one season, no matter if you torque them correctly or not.

In other news, I did the timing belt on the X this past weekend. Found a few interesting things while I was in there, including the likely reason Jay had all the issues when he had it done years ago. Looks like the previous mechanic scratched part of the camshaft surface, I thought I did it when I pulled the seal, but it was stained with oil browning, and you could tell someone had polished the rough edges off. They also broke the bottom of the oil pump off which holds the lowest timing cover bolt, the chunk and bolt are still stuck to the cover lol. Not a big deal, I sealed it down with a bit of RTV to keep the dirt out.

But I did find out the belt tensioner pulleys all have some noise, got 2 aftermarket ones for the PS and idler SC belt. But the SC belt tensioner bolt broke so I bought a new one from Mike.

Sure needed it:

Whoa, good timing.

Yeah! Had to tear off the upper timing cover today, realized I did not remember if I torqued the upper camshaft sprocket bolts. Luckily they were tight-ish. Disaster averted. I think all the preventative maint is done now.

Replaced the leaking rear oring on my power steering pump


Replaced a cracked rcv boot after cleaning a lbs of mud out of the axle tube.

Lastly, the most important part. Replaced the hood prop rod holder

Nice work.

It's the 2000s, I would thought we'd have eradicated hood prop rods by now. I'd like to delete the one on our Xterra.

Bow_Tied wrote:Nice work.

It's the 2000s, I would thought we'd have eradicated hood prop rods by now. I'd like to delete the one on our Xterra.

Not going anywhere on wranglers. Hood socks stop you from flipping the hood all the way back to the windshield for better access.

Bow_Tied wrote:Nice work.

It's the 2000s, I would thought we'd have eradicated hood prop rods by now. I'd like to delete the one on our Xterra.

I'm pretty sure there is a kit or a DIY on the newX somewhere about that. I would like to do it to mine as well. Even my same era VW has a gas shock to hold the hood up (only one!)

Discovered I have 2 tie rods with a bit of play. Will be getting those changed tomorrow along with an alignment. Thankfully my friend at PartSource gives me a good discount. Got inner and outer for $98 all 4 of them.

Jason which of your fleet's PS pump is that?