Canadian Nissan Truck Club

Yorkdiver wrote:Yeah, unfortunately for that code, there is a pile of different things...

But have you checked the fluid level? 200,000km on my Titan and that light only came on for two reasons, failed front wheel bearings (once) and low brake fluid caused by worn pads (multiple times).

So I played around a bit today. I'm able to drive indefinitely (multiple km) with only the DIFF and VDC OFF lights. When I turn, DIFF shuts off and the ABS and SLIP lights turn on.

I have checked the fluid, but have not tested the sensor as previously mentioned.


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So apparently my transfer case was full of water. Talking with the shop tomorrow morning to see the damage and figure out what it will cost to fix.

Yorkdiver wrote:So apparently my transfer case was full of water. Talking with the shop tomorrow morning to see the damage and figure out what it will cost to fix.

Damn! How do you think that happened? Breather,gasket...

Most likely breather.

One of the things I do when I get a new-to-me vehicle is change the fluids, because of unknown history. When I changed the fluid on the t-case on a TJ I had, it came out battleship grey...looked more like wood stain than the ATF fluid that was supposed to be in there. It only took less than 2L of ATF, so I drained, filled, took it down a dirt road in 4WD a couple times, and changed it again a couple weeks later. It was still a bit greyish, but at least resembled pink.

It's super easy to get water in trans/t-case/diffs if you have done any water crossings...hot fluid = hot air within the casings; the plunge into cool water cools the air in the case which causes air/water/dust to be sucked into the case.

If you regularly do water crossings, extend your breather lines, and change your fluids at least once a year.

^ This.

I had water in my rear diff because the barb for the hose snapped off, I didn't know until after wheeling season. Fluid had obvious water in it, but not too bad. A couple short drain and fills got it right again.

I tend to do my diffs 2 or 3 times a season. I buy cheap gear oil by the 5gal bucket and have one of those pump lids. I usually pull the covers for a full cleaning once or twice a season and just do a drain and fill a couple other times. I've now gone 2 summers on the same $50 bucket. I may step up to some slightly better stuff when it runs out, just because at this rate, I can.

the x kid wrote:

Yorkdiver wrote:So apparently my transfer case was full of water. Talking with the shop tomorrow morning to see the damage and figure out what it will cost to fix.

Damn! How do you think that happened? Breather,gasket...

Nissan didn't hook the breather back up when they worked on it last. Not even going to try to argue the point with them


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Yorkdiver wrote:

the x kid wrote: Damn! How do you think that happened? Breather,gasket...

Nissan didn't hook the breather back up when they worked on it last. Not even going to try to argue the point with them


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Sucks dude. Good luck.

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Spring cleaning....what a mess! All good now though. I think I will take a wire brush and crawl underneath at some point with some rust paint. I am a proactive type when it comes to rust, I don't like it to spread.

Give your wires a check for the green death.

Spent the last few weekends excising it from the tow rig.
Wireing harness and fuse box are both suffering.

Also preformed a remote startecotmy

Fun times.

Installed my helper springs last night , still do to some wireing for lights , and a Compressor and tank install.

Drizit wrote:Give your wires a check for the green death.

Spent the last few weekends excising it from the tow rig.
Wireing harness and fuse box are both suffering.

I'm starting to notice symptoms of the same on my Cummins and it's only a '12. So far I'm not impressed with the quality of Chrysler/Dodge/FCA products.

With a '12 and you are getting corrosion on the connections? Wow! I can see a recall coming.

Aside from the battery terminals I have not seen much green corrosion on the X

Snafu wrote:With a '12 and you are getting corrosion on the connections? Wow! I can see a recall coming.

Aside from the battery terminals I have not seen much green corrosion on the X

Probably not, they've been having the same issue with the fuse box/TIPM since at least the 3rd gen stuff and it hasn't gotten better since. The unit is in the engine bay, exposed to spray, the box is "tamper proof" but in no way shape or form water tight. To top it off the board isn't potted so it's easy to damage and its a grand or so to replace. The price is particularly annoying when you open it up and find out how much isn't in there. I'd say production costs are probably in the 15 to 20 dollar range.

Got mine fixed so I'm going to see if it holds up. I plan to put silicone over any parts that got damaged and are now exposed and coat the rest in dielectric grease. Should be a hell of a mess but I'm hoping it holds up a bit.

Probably a lot of lawyers involved to avoid recall. I have not seen it that bad with my 07 so I am surprised newer vehicles are having the problem.

Lots of JK's, apparently caravans to. The guy who fixed the computer on my Mazda (and refused to touch the box on the Dodge) said he's seen customers with trucks as new as 2015 with the issue.

Well, got the fuse box back in. All the lights work now, but still no radio, heated seats, keyless entry, or odb2 port. Looks like the corrosion in the harness connections is too far gone. Now to try and find pigtails. Joy... Would a couple of o-rings really broken the bank chrysler?

Real shame although Chrysler's were not known for reliable wiring...remember the ballast resistor? Worked great until the ballast went. Always carried a spare.

Drove it to work. New o2 sensor and drivers side converter on the weekend.

Getting a nasty rattling sound from drivers side head on the Xterra. May need to replace rocker arms.