Radflo click/clack
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Radflo click/clack
Hi all, it's been a busy summer and am ashamed I haven't been out once. Those who know me, I've only been out fishing once...and no lake "x" Hopefully all is good with everone.
Long story short I had an issue with what I thought was lower ball joints originally. Further investigation reveled something was doing in the lower shock mount area. Just rocking the truck would make a crick/crackin sound and driving it was definatly audible. I ended up calling Greg at PRG to get some bushing and a bearing, but apparently he dosent sell that chit. He told me to contact radflo directly. Fast foward a week later, got the parts (new bearing and insert bushing thingies) and installed them. Here's a little how to for those who'd like to know.
Jack the truck, support it blah blah blah. Pull the tire off. Let the suspension droop down and remove the lower shock nut & bolt. Remove the three top nuts and bolts in the coil bucket to release the top hat. Once the coil over is out take it to a bench and remove one C-clip (I removed both, don't ask). Get a socket that fits the bearing and tap it out. Surprising it came out easy, no press required thank god. Wipe the gunk off the inside bore of the lower shock body and clean out the C-clip groove with what you have.
Install is pretty much the same as the removal. Set in one C-clip, push bearing in, insert the other C-clip and reinstall the coilover. Didn't go with torque specs just chooched up nice and tight for my liking.
Problem solved! If you've got a ticking/circling/crackling sound dig a little further as it might no be a bad ball joint. I grabed the lower shock bolt and rocked the truck back and forth and felt a destincitve "pop" in that area.
No more noises and the steering feels tighter. Here's a few pics of the carnage and repair.
New vs old driver side which started this off
Another quality bearing shot
Notice the bearing is worn (drivers side) which was causing the "click/clack" noise
This is the passanger side (no noise) new vs old. The bearing was siezed and those little insert chooch thingies were busted.
All good in da hood.
Any questions or thoughts PM me or add to this post.
Pidge.
Long story short I had an issue with what I thought was lower ball joints originally. Further investigation reveled something was doing in the lower shock mount area. Just rocking the truck would make a crick/crackin sound and driving it was definatly audible. I ended up calling Greg at PRG to get some bushing and a bearing, but apparently he dosent sell that chit. He told me to contact radflo directly. Fast foward a week later, got the parts (new bearing and insert bushing thingies) and installed them. Here's a little how to for those who'd like to know.
Jack the truck, support it blah blah blah. Pull the tire off. Let the suspension droop down and remove the lower shock nut & bolt. Remove the three top nuts and bolts in the coil bucket to release the top hat. Once the coil over is out take it to a bench and remove one C-clip (I removed both, don't ask). Get a socket that fits the bearing and tap it out. Surprising it came out easy, no press required thank god. Wipe the gunk off the inside bore of the lower shock body and clean out the C-clip groove with what you have.
Install is pretty much the same as the removal. Set in one C-clip, push bearing in, insert the other C-clip and reinstall the coilover. Didn't go with torque specs just chooched up nice and tight for my liking.
Problem solved! If you've got a ticking/circling/crackling sound dig a little further as it might no be a bad ball joint. I grabed the lower shock bolt and rocked the truck back and forth and felt a destincitve "pop" in that area.
No more noises and the steering feels tighter. Here's a few pics of the carnage and repair.
New vs old driver side which started this off
Another quality bearing shot
Notice the bearing is worn (drivers side) which was causing the "click/clack" noise
This is the passanger side (no noise) new vs old. The bearing was siezed and those little insert chooch thingies were busted.
All good in da hood.
Any questions or thoughts PM me or add to this post.
Pidge.
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Re: Radflo click/clack
Coles notes: radflo supplied the bearings and insert bushing thingies, fast and accurate. Oakville Nissan got me the new lower shock bolts and nuts. Zero issues and fast shipping/pickup.
Pidge.
Pidge.
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Re: Radflo click/clack
Good stuff!
Missed you at AW
Missed you at AW
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A.D.O.S.S: Attention Deficit Oooooo Something Shiny! (thanks Simon!)
RIP - Keyser - July 2000 to September 2010 - hope we were as loyal to you as you were to us.
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Re: Radflo click/clack
I need to do the same for my rear Sway-A-Way shocks. Unfortunately after contacting them multiple times I've heard nothing. I thought I found the part number once and ordered from Summit, turned out to be a size too small. I think I have the right number now (COM-10T) however I haven't ordered them yet.
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- Don't follow me, you wont make it.
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Re: Radflo click/clack
Thanks Snafu. Miner...mayby try contacting "CT Motorsport" I was able to get some busings for my PRG upper arms that were in stock there. They seem to carry, what I belive is called a heim joint in various sizes. They may be able to point you in the right direction. Google CT Motorsport in Mississauga. It's a chitty deal I know when it comes to tracking down these things and finding a source. BTW the ratchet extensions are coming in handy.
Pidge.
Pidge.
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Re: Radflo click/clack
Ski is a really good guy and will bend over backwards to help you find the parts you need.
- Miner
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Re: Radflo click/clack
Will do, thanks.
Cummins - Zone, BD, AFE, Yokohama, Bestop, Access, VisonX, H&S
Simon wrote:It's not like the membership voted under control of a heavy hand...
Dammit, I've said too much...I'll have to ban you now