Canadian Nissan Truck Club

It's worth nothing. I'll take it off your hands for $10

JAS has you pegged. You'll be lucky to get what you feel is fair for it. Look at Tankhunter's X for example. With all the modifications, he's had a tough time selling it for even a fraction of what he's put into it.

Dammit...I lied. We're scheduled for November 23rd. The freakin place was booked for the 30th.

It will likely be Nov 30th this year. We'll confirm that we can get "our" spot and post up the details

Welcome to CNTC!

1.5L in a week is excessive. You'd either see it leaking, or see it burning.

I'm willing to bet they simply didn't put enough oil in to begin with. Keep an eye on it.

You drive too fast.

I suspect it's not a terribly difficult replacement, except for hooking up to the pedal assembly, as working in the footwell is never fun.

It typically doesn't take too long for our members when we register the club at the AGM. I don't know how long it takes them to do so for single members. You should be able to e-mail them to check on your registration, to make sure it wasn't overlooked.

the "milkshake" is FAR less common on the first gen X and Fronty than on the 2nd gens. The design is totally different, and the rad doesn't seem to be susceptible to the same failures. Still, if it's running warm at idle, as FF said, take the rad out, and get it cleaned up well. Don't use ...

^^^ This. Pezzy has a Warn M8000 on her truck, and it's been good. No issues, plenty of power, but it's not a "budget" winch like the Superwinch. As Jim said, though, use a snatch block, and you won't stress the winch too much, and it'll likely give you years of reliable service.

I've still got the 1000w inverter in my X, and have run my wall mount CH compressor on it a number of times. Works just fine. I ran 4G wire, through a 100a marine breaker, to my amp and inverter. I don't run my amp when I've got anything high draw connected to the inverter.

Congrats and keep us posted!

So wait....where does this go? does it hold up part of the strut assembly?

Replaced the steering rack bushings, and front sway bar bushings on Pezzy's truck. Clunk is gone and do is the steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Also reinstalled skid plates and fixed her cb antenna wire temporarily. AW ready!

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Check your intake tube for cracks/leaks as it could cause the unmeasured air Miner was referring to.

Try this...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,2772

And this for LED

http://www.amazon.com/12-SMD-Festoon-ST ... sbs_auto_1

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Stee ... /8004135.p

Leave the nut on, but loose on the ball joint when using the separator.

The best I've seen are Shrockworks plates. A few of our members have them, and they seem to offer the best protection. They are NOT CHEAP though, and can be sourced through National 4WD in Canada, or through Shrockworks directly in the US. http://national4wdonline.com/ http://www.shrockworks.com/Nis...

Snafu wrote:I open it to relieve pressure and always told to do so. I did buy a huge syringe to suck out any excess.

I've got an old turkey baster for the same purpose!

I usually open it. Theres less resistance in the system, and I've heard the vented caps can sometimes cause air suction if you leave it on tight when depressing the plunger on the calipers. Not sure if it's true or not, but I've never had an issue opening the reservoir.

Yeah, that's pushing a lot more data through the connection than an OBDII connection would.